Following are more than 60 articles I've written for the NICROS Training Center. The links below will take you to the NICROS site to read the article. While you are there, please check out the latest hand holds and training tools!

Physical Training
  • Training in Accordance to the "SAID" Principle
  • Three Cornerstone Principles of Effective Training
  • An Overview of Power & Strength Training
  • How To Increase "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!
  • Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing
  • High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
  • Bouldering as Training for Climbing
  • Hypergravity Isolation Training for Max Grip Strength
  • HIT Workout Details for Maximum Grip Strength
  • Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 1
  • Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 2
  • Effective Fingerboard Training - Part 1
  • Training the Core Muscles
  • Eastern Bloc Training: Heavy Finger Rolls
  • Training at the Crags
  • Effective Pull-up Training
  • Developing "Limit" Strength
  • Low-Risk Campus Training for Power & Grip Strength - Part 1
  • Campus Training for Strength & Power - Part 2
  • Best of "Pump Rock" Training
  • Training Muscular Endurance - Part 1
  • Training Muscular Endurance - Part 2
  • Complex Training
  • The Benefits of Pilates for Climbers
  • Physioball Exercises for Your Core
  • Research: The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
  • Pilates Training for Climbers

    Injury, Recovery & Nutrition
  • Overview of Elbow Injuries
  • Treating "Climber's Elbow"
  • Treating Lateral Elbow Tendinosis
  • 5 Tips for Reducing Injury Risk
  • The Benefits of Active Recovery
  • The Truth About Creatine for Climbers
  • Optimizing Body Composition
  • Online Calorie Calculator
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    Mental Training
  • Increasing Strength with Mind Training
  • Mental Training: Six Fixes for Increased Performance
  • Self-Asessment: The Breakfast of Champions
  • Strategies for Increasing Motivation
  • The ANSWER to Tension and Anxiety
  • How to Amp-up Motivation
  • Learning to Focus Like a Laser Beam
  • Improving Performance with a New Perspective
  • Your Thoughts are Everything
  • Pursuing Your Mega Goals
  • Beating the Fear of Falling
  • Anticipating Moves & Developing Climbing Strategy

    Technique & Tactics Training
  • How To Become a Master of Rock
  • The Importance of "Practice" vs. "Performance: Days
  • Enhance Performance with the "3 Area Pledge"
  • When the Climbing gets tough, focus on your feet!
  • Indoor Technique-Training Drills - Part 1
  • Indoor Technique-Training Drills - Part 2
  • Developing Optimal Hand Technique
  • Deciphering Crux Sequences
  • Fundamentals of Technique #1
  • Fundamentals of Technique #2
  • Fundamentals of Technique #3
  • Fundamentals of Technique #4
  • Fundamentals of Technique #5
  • Fundamentals of Technique #6
  • Fundamentals of Technique #7
  • Fundamentals of Technique #8
  • Tips for Redpointing Projects
  • Chunking Down Routes for Efficient Redpointing
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies
  • Study Shows that "G-Tox" Speeds Recovery
  • The Value of Chalk?
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